| Author |
 Topic  |
|
lapimate
Starting Member
New Zealand
20 Posts |
 Posted - 01/31/2006 : 03:35:15
|
HDD2D17 = MK6034GAX? Can you provide a direct link to it on DigitalHotBuy.com's site? Are you reporting that it definitely has 3.3V logic - the MK6034GAX seems to be 5V logic?
quote:
Originally posted by bigjohn
I just posted in above thread, I got a 60 gig, 5400 rpm 16mb cache 3.3 HD from Digital hotbuy.
....
lapimate |
 |
|
|
Schuetze
Starting Member
Japan
5 Posts |
Posted - 01/31/2006 : 06:54:48
|
katana_flyer:
I was really surprised to see the +5V drive as well, that's why I was second guessing myself about hooking it up. Well, I'm formatting right now, so all is well. I had to make another shopping trip to get some Arctic Silver (there is a metal plate heatsink sandwiched between the keyboard and the cpu that must be lifted to remove a screw, which botched the existing heatsink compound), but it went together nicely.
I bought this machine from Kemplar in August 2004, so I expect that the HDD warranty is still good. The zoomzipfly link for the original drive (MK6025GAS) contains warranty contact information for Toshiba USA:
http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=101677
Since I took apart the machine the Panasonic warranty is void, but I don't care about that. I'll probably end up returning the Toshiba HDD directly to Toshiba when I get back from Japan in a few months. I'd contact Kemplar about this directly, but none of their email addresses seem to work right now, and I can't be making long distance calls from my mobile. So Kemplar, if you read this, maybe email me? schuetze@toyota-ti.ac.jp.
Thanks.
|
|
|
|
Schuetze
Starting Member
Japan
5 Posts |
|
|
Schuetze
Starting Member
Japan
5 Posts |
|
|
professorai
Starting Member
9 Posts |
Posted - 04/07/2006 : 23:22:55
|
I just bought a snazzy 7k100 100g drive for $175, to upgrade my W2, not even thinking to check the forums first.
I am a little worried about clipping the pins, and/or reusing the existing 60g drive in an external 2.5" enclosure.
Anyone have experiences with removed 3.3v drives?
|
|
|
|
huqa
New Member
68 Posts |
Posted - 04/08/2006 : 09:36:25
|
quote:
..
Anyone have experiences with removed 3.3v drives?
You will be fine with the 3.3v on an external enclosure. That is what I did with mine sometime back. |
Edited by - huqa on 04/08/2006 09:36:52 |
|
|
|
lapimate
Starting Member
New Zealand
20 Posts |
Posted - 04/10/2006 : 03:01:51
|
| The Toshiba product spec doc no. 15888 for the MK2020GLP/MK4020GLS lists on p16 the Allowable voltage supply for logic as 3.3V or 5V, and does not seem to have any pin to select which, so maybe the internals auto-detect the logic voltage? |
|
|
|
bladez
Starting Member
Australia
40 Posts |
Posted - 05/01/2006 : 23:30:52
|
Successfully upgraded my R3 with the 7K100 last night. Originally had the original Toshi 40G 4200rpm 8mb cache drive.
I was worried about battery / noise. Surprisingly enough I've noticed...
1. Slightly better battery life. I'd say by 30mins ...but this can be deceptive as batt life changes frequently depending on brightness / processor speed, etc.
2. Haven't noticed it being any noisier
3. Heat doesn't appera to be a big problem. As the ULV processor (left hand side of the laptop) seems to be producing more heat than the hdd.
So all looking good!
|
|
|
|
tmt
Advanced Member
2769 Posts |
Posted - 05/01/2006 : 23:48:33
|
quote:
Originally posted by bladez
Surprisingly enough I've noticed...1. Slightly better battery life.
Not a surprise at all. Faster drives do their work faster, and get back to low power idle
faster. Many studies have shown that battery life improves with drive performance, since
it's the main bottleneck, and the main power hog.
Enjoy the new performance! Both kinds.
Tom. |
|
|
|
MCK
Starting Member
USA
5 Posts |
Posted - 05/18/2006 : 18:48:46
|
I'm planning on upgrading my Toughbook CF-R1 for better performance. It currently has the factory installed MK2020GLP harddrive, 4200 RPM, ultra DMA 2. Most of the new harddrives seem to be ultra DMA 5. As I understand it ultra DMA 2 works with a 40 wire cable but anything higher than DMA 2 needs an 80 wire cable. Does anyone know if the CF-R1 has a forty or 80 wire cable? If it's a forty wire can I replace it with 80 wire and still get Ultra DMA 5 performance? If I'm limited to ultra DMA 2 is there any point in upgrading (I don't really need more storage, just speed)?
Thanks for any input.
Mike. |
|
|
|
bubbakittee
Starting Member
30 Posts |
Posted - 05/31/2006 : 21:10:51
|
Replaced the hard disk in my T2 with a
Hitachi 4K120 (120 GB, 4200 RPM).
Swap was easy. Pins 41 and 42 are connected
inside the drive, so no bending needed.
Drive is very quiet and cool.
Battery life seems to have declined by
about 30 minutes, but that doesn't matter too
much since I now have 5 batteries.
I also added a gigabyte of memory. Would this cause
any additional battery drainage ??
bk |
|
|
|
Wizzard
Starting Member
USA
28 Posts |
Posted - 06/28/2006 : 14:55:31
|
Is it possible to purposely run a 3.3v/5v drive on 3.3v? I've noticed many drives consume significantly less power running on 3.3v as opposed to 5v...
Also, I believe using a good diode or two with 1.7v drop would fix most 3.3v drives to operate at 5v input. |
|
|
|
MCK
Starting Member
USA
5 Posts |
Posted - 07/21/2006 : 10:44:52
|
Another success story.
I replaced the original hard drive of my CF-R1 with a Hitachi Travelstar 7K100 80GB ATA 7200 RPM. It works fine, performance is better, but still Ultra DMA mode 2 instead of mode 5.
I was reluctant, like most others, to start cutting pins on a perfectly good hard drive. I tried connecting the hard drive without cutting any pins (I had to poke an extra hole in the hard drive cable connector to accommodate pin 44 on the hard drive). I knew almost immediately that this wouldn't work because the power light on the laptop wouldn't even illuminate. After cutting pin 44 and bending pin 41 to touch pin 42 the laptop started properly.
Thanks FrankCH and other forum contributors. Mike. |
|
|
|
lapimate
Starting Member
New Zealand
20 Posts |
Posted - 07/23/2006 : 05:55:53
|
Mike-MCK: How did you deal with the heat sink transfer paste between the heat sink & CPU on the CF-R1N? Did it just separate nicely without breaking up? Was it just a smear or a distinct thick flexible layer? Did you replace/repair the old paste (with what)?
How did you transfer the disk contents? Did you use Norton Ghost 10.0 or Acronis 9? If so, did you clone the old drive using a USB case for new drive? Any hints to ensure trouble-free transfer (in particular prevent drive letter issues)?
The Hitachi TravelStar 5K100 has pin 41 internally connected to pin 42 (guess 7K100 is same) so I suspect the important thing you achieved by bending pin 41, is to prevent pin 41 being driven at the old 3.3V, not to connect it to pin 42 (5V).
Thanks.
Barney |
|
|
|
MCK
Starting Member
USA
5 Posts |
Posted - 07/23/2006 : 07:50:09
|
Lapimate,
I have a Toughbook CF-R1P vs CF-R1N, but I don't think that matters much.
quote:
How did you deal with the heat sink transfer paste between the heat sink & CPU on the CF-R1N? Did it just separate nicely without breaking up? Was it just a smear or a distinct thick flexible layer? Did you replace/repair the old paste (with what)?
I was concerned about that also. In my case there was no paste but what appeared to be a thin black cushy pad, almost like dense foam rubber. The pad separated cleanly from the CPU. If yours is the same you'll have no doubt that it can be reused. The pad seemed to be more an insulator than a heat transfer. Could this be a heat shield rather than a heat sink?
quote:
How did you transfer the disk contents? Did you use Norton Ghost 10.0 or Acronis 9? If so, did you clone the old drive using a USB case for new drive? Any hints to ensure trouble-free transfer (in particular prevent drive letter issues)?
I backed up small files to my SD card, and a few big files to my desktop hard drive (in my case with ultraVNC's file transfer). Then I did a clean install of windows on the new hard drive. This was the biggest pain since I couldn't get the Toughbook to recognize my CD drive for reinstall. Eventually I purchased on ebay a Panasonic CD drive KXL-RW10A, which the reinstall FirstAid diskette recognizes by default.
quote:
The Hitachi TravelStar 5K100 has pin 41 internally connected to pin 42 (guess 7K100 is same) so I suspect the important thing you achieved by bending pin 41, is to prevent pin 41 being driven at the old 3.3V, not to connect it to pin 42 (5V).
I agree, I misread the instructions and thought that if pins 41 and 42 were internally connected I didn't have to do anything to pin 41. Leaving pin 41 intact didn't work so I bent it to touch pin 42 but I should have just cut it, the connector to the hard drive would attach fully flush that way.
Two things caused me some concern during this procedure, the first were the ribbon connectors to the keyboard and hard drive. I'd never worked with these before. Once I saw how they operated it was easy to remove/attach them. My other panic was when I disconnected the spring for the latch that normally keeps the laptop closed. This came off twice. It tends to disconnect from its left side (not the side that attaches to the sliding latch). Once I found the post that it needed to attach to I inserted a jeweler's screwdriver into the coils of the spring (into the tube of the spring) on the still attached side and pushed it towards the attachment post while gently lifting the circuit board the rests just above the attachment post. It's hard to put into words, I wish I had a picture. If that spring comes off and you can't put it back I'll try to explain it better.
Don't hesitate to ask if you have more questions.
Mike |
|
|
|
lapimate
Starting Member
New Zealand
20 Posts |
Posted - 07/23/2006 : 19:57:24
|
quote:
Originally posted by MCK ... In my case there was no paste but what appeared to be a thin black cushy pad, almost like dense foam rubber. The pad separated cleanly from the CPU. If yours is the same you'll have no doubt that it can be reused. The pad seemed to be more an insulator than a heat transfer. Could this be a heat shield rather than a heat sink? ...
Thanks Mike. There is a comment I think relevant to this by tmt posted 5/16/2006 in
http://www.leog.net/fujp_forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5649
Barney |
|
|
|
MCK
Starting Member
USA
5 Posts |
Posted - 07/25/2006 : 13:17:32
|
Thanks lapimate, I'd better look into that. The material I saw on my heat sink really didn't seem to be a paste, I wonder if there's such a thing a heat transfer tape. It will be a while before I get to this, if I learn anything new I'll post it.
Mike.
|
|
|
|
tmt
Advanced Member
2769 Posts |
Posted - 07/26/2006 : 06:56:36
|
quote:
Originally posted by MCK
I wonder if there's such a thing a heat transfer tape.
There sure is. I'd replace it, personally. I recommend the Arctic Silver products. Be sure to clean both surfaces thoroughly.
Tom. |
|
|
|
lapimate
Starting Member
New Zealand
20 Posts |
Posted - 07/26/2006 : 08:11:08
|
quote:
Originally posted by tmt
There sure is. I'd replace it, personally. I recommend the Arctic Silver products. Be sure to clean both surfaces thoroughly. Tom.
As I understand it, the Arctic Silver products are supposed to be applied in a very thin layer about the thickness of a sheet of paper, but Mike has described a heat transfer "pad" of tangible thickness. Presumably this is because there is a definite gap between the CF-R1P's CPU and heatsink. That is the construction of the CF-R1P does not(?) allow the heatsink to be fitted so there is no or only a paper-thin gap. So Tom do you have some advice about the appropriate solution for the heat-transfer medium in this "gap-filling" situation?
Barney |
|
|
|
tmt
Advanced Member
2769 Posts |
Posted - 07/27/2006 : 08:11:48
|
Good contact is critical, yes. Since the T-series uses the keyboard underside as the
heatsink, and the keyboard is flexible, it's my expectation that the contact will be
sufficient. That's worth checking, in any case.
If it isn't in full, parallel contact, then I'd suggest heat-transfer tape, which is
certainly available. There are also nonadhesive silicone pads.
Tom. |
|
|
|
Wizzard
Starting Member
USA
28 Posts |
Posted - 07/27/2006 : 11:50:10
|
| Hey, do you guys know where to gewt those pads? My Fiva 101 has a not-so-effective keyboard heatsink as well, and I cant find those pads to beef up the contact area anywhere! I need about 1/8"th thickness, or maybe a bit thicker. Good heat transfer is a must, of course! |
|
|
|
tmt
Advanced Member
2769 Posts |
Posted - 07/27/2006 : 21:37:19
|
I've seen them in CompUSA, of all places. They usually have a component island with
fans, IDE cables, etc on them. They had thermal tape and Arctic Silver.
1/8" is way beyond realistic though. These things need to be t h i n.
Tom. |
|
|
|
lapimate
Starting Member
New Zealand
20 Posts |
|
|
blaw
Starting Member
2 Posts |
Posted - 01/17/2007 : 14:05:39
|
I had my Panasonic CFW2 hard drive fail a couple of weeks ago. I found a large number of reference on the web that explained how to upgrade the drive using a +5V drive. So I purchased a Toshiba MK1031GAS 100GB drive (the same drive used on one of the sites that claimed to have upgraded a CFW2). I modified the drive to eliminate the +5V logic pin. I was able to install the drive and confirm that the drive motor was operating however when I tried to load the OS with my recovery disk I was greeted with a message of "No Drive". Any ideas here? I had another drive available to test with and it seems that the issue is drive specific as I was able to have the PC recognize the other drive.
|
|
|
|
tmt
Advanced Member
2769 Posts |
Posted - 01/17/2007 : 15:22:38
|
Which pin(s) exactly did you eliminate? Also, is there any kind of visible jumper on
the logic board between this pin and the drive motor supply? The presence of this
jumper in the new drive is mandatory for the hack to work - most drives have them
preinstalled, or simply designed-in. Without it, you'll get the motor spinning up
but the drive electronics unpowered.
Tom. |
|
|
|
Topic |
|
5V hard drives in 3.3V notebooks
